What’s Hot in the World of Wine: Chilled wine, good rosé & soul-warming reds





Once a fortnight, CellarVie Wines kicks back with the weekend’s newspapers in an effort to determine what’s hot in the world of wine, offering up views and possible alternatives to the nation’s big-hitting publications and their wine suggestions. In the seventh instalment of ‘What’s Hot’, a number of venerated wine journalists purport their thoughts and interests within the industry and amongst other things discuss the merits of chilling red wine, the delights of lesser-known Gallic grapes, decent rosé and soul-warming reds

 
‘Wines that will flourish in your fridge’
 
The Sunday Times’ Katie Spicer highlights the benefits of chilling wine to mask “sloppy winemaking” – both white and red. In addition to making “bad wine more drinkable” Spicer intimates that reducing the temperature of wine “can work wonders”. Although eager to stress the positive effects of lowering the temperature of wine, she also claims throughout her article that it is a difficult balancing act because “tannins are the enemy of chilling” and by over doing it “you’ll taste nothing, only feel a dryness”.
 
CellarVie Wines says: There is huge merit in forgetting the age-old “room temperature” rule, because quite simply a lot of wine tastes better out of the fridge. Red in particular is often served far too warm, and on the flip side, whites are perpetually chilled to death in some instances. The temperature of wine in the glass can have a marked impact on taste and smell and therefore, as the aforementioned Spicer intimates, it is a difficult act to get to right. While you probably wouldn’t want to chill a Bordeaux or a Barolo or any other chunky reds for that matter, most reds chilled to 14C certainly have their merits.
 
Why not try:
 
Barbera d'Asti 2008, Tenimenti Ca' Bianca
 
Parini Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC, 2011
 
Brouilly Domaine des Dames de la Roche 2009, E.Loron et Fils

 
‘The delights of lesser-known Gallic grapes’
 
Susy Atkins from The Telegraph focuses on lesser-known grape varieties from France and suggests there are a number of gems to be discovered. While acknowledging the fact that "cheap, branded French wines can be even worse" than their occasionally "bland and uniform" equivalents from Australia and California, Atkins rightly suggests obscure grapes, particularly from the smaller and less-established wineries, very much have their merits. Labouring the point she mentions that dry French rosés are becoming increasingly common amongst younger drinkers adding that going against the norm is no bad thing.
 
CellarVie Wines says:While on the point of the aforementioned dry French rosés, we would strongly recommend you try Joseph Mellot's Sancerre Rosé Le Rabault 2010, which is hugely popular in the office and is something of a rarity as it is made using Pinot Noir. Like Atkins, we believe there is a nothing better than going of the well-beaten track to find a hidden gem amongst the more established brands and indeed grape varieties out there.
 
Why not try:
 
Sancerre Rosé 2010, Le Rabault, Joseph Mellot
 
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Domaine Berthet-Rayne 2009

 
'Tickled pink'
Despite acknowledging he has “grown a bit bored of Rosé” recently, the Daily Mail’s Olly Smith has devoted his weekly instalment “to finding some decent rosés in the hope that we can all dive into a cold glass and relax in the sunshine.” Smith suggests rose is about “simplicity” and is hugely versatile when it comes to being enjoyed with every-day foods.
 
CellarVie Wines says: That the sunshine has been missing for weeks is neither here nor there and while there are a host of generic rosés saturating the market currently, there is the odd gem out there. The aforementioned unusual Sancerre Rosé 2010 is a lovely, light in colour, dry rosé that is perfect for the summer if it comes. The Tavel is an archetypal Rosé and one of France’s most iconic, so give that a go as well.
Why not try:
 
Sancerre Rosé 2010, Le Rabault, Joseph Mellot
 
Tavel Rosé, La Rouvière 2009
 
Don Jacobo Rioja Rosado 2009, Bodegas Corral

 
‘Soul-warming reds’
 
The weather is, let’s face it, horrific. Summer has probably been and gone, and with those rather depressing sentiments in mind, The Sunday Times’ inimitable Bob Tyrer, after a three week hiatus, returns to suggest “some adventurous, soul-warming reds. In honour of Prince Philip, and, as this will be appearing on Father’s Day, let’s say the theme is patriarchs." 
 
Listing an elegant red from Armenia, a Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley courtesy of CellarVie Wines no less, and “a warming super-premium called Alwa” from Chile that "would surely have saved Prince Philip from hospital", Tyrer pays lip-service to the dastardly weather and suggests the aforementioned are a worthy tribute to the world’s dads on Father’s Day.
 
CellarVie Wines: Forgive us for being self-indulgent but given our perennial mentioning of Mr Tyrer in our ‘What’s Hot’ every fortnight, imagine our surprise when CellarVie Wines found their way into The Sunday Times at the weekend. We are huge fans of their weekly ‘On the Bottle’ segment, whether it’s the whimsical pros of Tyrer or the equally brilliant Katie Spicer, so seeing our name in the pages of Times, albeit fleetingly, was very welcome indeed. For those interested the bottle in question was the Robert Mondavi (“most certainly the daddy of the modern Californian wine industry” according to Tyrer) Winery Cabernet Sauvignon.
 
Why not try:
 
Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
 
Veramonte Merlot Reserva 2009, Casablanca Valley

 
'What to serve with salmon?'
 
Susy Atkins suggests a number of tipples to drink with Salmon, intimating “dry wines for white fish (sauvignon blanc, dry Riesling, muscadet, soave) fall down” where Salmon is concerned. Medium-dry vouvray from the Loire, a Chardonnay from Burgundy and a vodka from leafy Herefordshire are all mentioned as suitable alternatives when eating salmon.
 
CellarVie Wines says: While all of Atkins’ aforementioned suggestions have their obvious merits, Jon recently championed a salmon recipe based on the "lovely vibrant cherry and strawberry fruit character of the Errázuriz Pinot Noir 2010”. If that doesn’t suit your palate, the Bourgogne Chardonnay Couvent des Jacobins 2009, Louis Jadot, with its smells of ripe peaches and fresh butter perfectly accompany “the meaty, rich texture of salmon”.
 
Why not try:
 
Errázuriz Pinot Noir 2010, Casablanca Valley
 
Bourgogne Chardonnay Couvent des Jacobins 2009, Louis Jadot

 
Euro 2012
 
David Williams from The Guardian suggests "two French wines and a bottle from Spain to get you in the mood for Euro 2012". Highlighting a number of lesser known wines and grape varieties such as the godello grape from Galicia's Valdeorras region in Spain, Williams also extols the virtues of a dry Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc from Coteaux du Giennois.
 
CellarVie Wines says:Spain are living up to their billing as pre-tournament favourites having successfully condemned the Republic of Ireland to an early exit and a humbling 4-0 defeat, while the French, under the studious Laurent Blanc, also look well-placed to qualify for the knockout stages. Although loathe to sound biased, and certainly not detracting anything from Spanish or French wines or indeed their patent footballing prowess, we think you should get behind the quietly dignified and diligent Roy Hodgson and his workmanlike squad over the next few weeks. With that patriotic sentiment in mind, why not try our English mixed case or at least sample some of the English wines on our list.
 
Why not try:
 
English mixed case
 
Ortega 2010, Biddenden Vineyards 
 
 
Read other instalments of 'What's Hot' by following the links below: - 
 
21 March - Gewürztraminer, Australian Rieslings & Chardonnays & Spanish Whites
3 April - Pol Roger, Chardonnay, Cava & Rum 
17 April - Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris & other wines for spring
1 May - Grüner Veltliner, Malbec, Moscato and Cortese
14 May - English wines, Chenin Blanc, the Diamond Jubilee & F. Scott Fitzgerald 
30 May - Queen's Diamond Jubilee, Natural Wines, Wine with movies & ABV 
  
 

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